The trip started in late May with a much anticipated trip to Boulder, CO and a visit with our extended family that includes Mark and Julie Perkins and our two Godchildren (Connor and Christy Perkins). It was a well coordinated visit. You must understand, there is nothing left to chance with Peggy as my wife and travel partner and Julie Perkins, the mother of Connor and Christy. Every minute of our short stay and the itinerary for the entire trip was very well planned and coordinated. We thank you.
We arrived in the Boulder area via US Air on May 26, but not before an unscheduled stop in Colorado Springs. There were a couple of tornadoes in and around Denver airport. The diversion left us parked on the tarmac in Colorado Springs for close to two hours along with some 15 other diverted aircraft. When we finally reached Denver, grabbed our bags and went to the appointed place for pick-up by Mark Perkins, we were greeted by Mark and more winds and hale--lots of hale; about golf ball size.We hit the ground running. After an emotional and loving greeting at the Perkins' home in Boulder, Julie and I were off to Colorado University to get Connor. He was there with other classmates celebrating their last day in middle school and their coming graduation into high school. We spotted Connor as we approached a group of good looking teenagers gathered around him. His eyes keyed on his mom, and then there was that wonderful smile and widening of eyes, given to surprise, as our eyes met. He wasn't expecting me to be with Julie and the greeting was...let's say, a bit emotional for me. I hadn't seen Connor and his sister Christy since their visit to D.C. a couple of years ago.
The following morning, Julie, Peggy and I took Connor and Christy to school. It was Connor's last day--"to clean out their lockers". Sounded to me like the busy work our Marine Corps platoon sergeants gave us when we had nothing planned but the Sergeant wanted us underfoot in case he could think of something. The trip to school gave Julie a chance to show us their schools and we got to meet the neighborhood cat that greets Christy every morning while Christy "scooters" her way through the alley-ways between homes that takes her to the front entrance of her school.
Following a meet and greet of some of the parents and teachers in and around the school, we were off to downtown Denver to visit the Denver Mint. We all were looking forward to the tour, but none more than Peggy. She's been a coin collector for years. As a matter of fact, I still have the hernia from lugging the coins to a buyer in Annapolis as part of our preparation to downsize for our planned move to our awaiting home in Ft. Myers.
The mint is housed in a grand old building complete with wall mouldings and chandeliers of the period in which it was built. The only thing missing was the shotgun totting guard who once was stationed above the entrance stairwell and the modern working floor that still prints the nation's coins. The main mint press was stamping out pennies while another employees were checking the coins for defects and running off the new National Park quarters. No samples were available but there was the ubiquitous gift shop where you could purchase all that is produced by the Denver Mint, and more.
Following the festivities at the school an invitation for a pizza lunch was proposed and quickly accepted by Ms Christy. One thing Christy ain't, is shy. A couple of things I now know she loves are ice cream following dinner at "DQ" and pizza. The look on her face here was not enticed.
The evening was a fun one. The Perkins family (Christy) introduced her Godparents to Wii. Christy is smart, athletic and precocious. She comes from a good blood line. Connor nor Christy lack excellent qualities. They come with intellect and athletic skills. Christy has a yellow belt in Hokkaido and plays rugby on a team made up with boys and girls. Connor plays rugby for a local club and is currently doing two-a-days readying for his freshman football team. It was Chisty's show, however, at the Wii controls. She didn't disappoint. Peggy and I were introduced to bowling, ski jumping, golf and boxing. I'm sure Christy would agree the night's competition finished in a draw and we all went to bed tired.
The following day, our last day with our extended family, was introducing Peggy and reacquainting me with Rugby. Connor and Christy both play. Connor the more experienced in the game. Christy is just starting. Rugby is almost as large a participation sport as is football in Boulder. There are many clubs and teams for children and men and women of all ages.
Most of the games were held at the home field of Colorado's Rugby team. It is a beautiful facility that easily accommodated four to six games on the stadium field and a couple of other games on the large practice field adjacent to the stadium. I was amazed and entertained to watch so many little people on mixed (girls and boys) teams playing, and playing very well. What also was impressive were the coaches and referees who taught as the games were played. The hard but fair play notwithstanding, in the stands and throughout the entire venue parents and friends made it a friendly picnic atmosphere. Despite there being a snack bar, everyone appeared to bring food and drink; enough for families, friends and guests. People we simply said hello to gave us a large drink container and left cups and ice for Peggy and me. Hard play, teaching, family fun ruled the day.
What also is worthy of mentioning is the house chef. Besides being a loving and caring parent, Mark works at home and is the chief cook and bottle washer of the house. He and Julie see to it the house is filled with fresh and healthy foods; most grown and purchased locally. Some are even grown in their own yard garden just off of the back patio. Mark is up before the kids and provides them and their guests a complete and healthy breakfast including the fixing for my breakfast drink. Peggy and I simply can't tell you how much we enjoyed being with all of them and being treated so royally.
The next day was getaway day. It was hard for Peggy and me to say goodbye to a very special and loved family. Our brief stay just seemed to go by so quickly. Before the sliding glass doors closed behind us at Denver's airport, we both felt a loss. We were quickly revived, however, when we looked at the United Air check-in line. It was one very long line. Fortunately, we were alerted to the curbside service station lines were short to nil. We took the nil line. In a little more than an hour we were off to Anchorage; our first stop in Alaska.
After several hours of flying, reading and/or watching the TV monitor, I asked Peggy to raise the window blind to approximately see where we were in our flight. The photo to the left was our first glimpse of the beauty that was about to unfold during our trip to Alaska. The mountain range pictured here is British Columbia, about an hour from landing in Anchorage.
We landed in Anchorage mid afternoon; so it seemed. It was 0730 local time. It didn't get dark in Anchorage until 19 or 2000. We pick up our shuttle to our quarters at the Ramada Inn. At first glance, it wasn't to the standard of the Ramada Inns we're accustomed to in the lower 48. On second glance, it didn't change; but it was clean, it served a free breakfast, and more importantly, it was pretty much in the center of the business, food and entertainment district. We found a great brew pub only a short walk from the Ramada. It had a great view of the Anchorage port, served great food and had, on tap, a home brew that equaled Guinness. Needless to say, but I will, we took most of our dinner meals and libation there.
We landed in Anchorage mid afternoon; so it seemed. It was 0730 local time. It didn't get dark in Anchorage until 19 or 2000. We pick up our shuttle to our quarters at the Ramada Inn. At first glance, it wasn't to the standard of the Ramada Inns we're accustomed to in the lower 48. On second glance, it didn't change; but it was clean, it served a free breakfast, and more importantly, it was pretty much in the center of the business, food and entertainment district. We found a great brew pub only a short walk from the Ramada. It had a great view of the Anchorage port, served great food and had, on tap, a home brew that equaled Guinness. Needless to say, but I will, we took most of our dinner meals and libation there.
The following day, Peggy and I began exploring the greater Anchorage area. Peggy bought a few things for friends, we took a trolley tour of Anchorage, made arrangements to take a glacier and wildlife tour by air with Rust's Flying service and visited the Alaska Native Heritage Center.
Anchorage was incorporated on November 23, 1920. Alaska attained statehood in 1959. On March 27th, 1964, a natural disaster of incredible proportions struck Anchorage and South-central Alaska, AKA the "Good Friday Earthquake". The earthquake measured 9.2 on the Richter Scale, the largest ever recorded in North America and, because Anchorage lay only 80 miles from the epicenter, damage to structures ran into the hundreds of millions of dollars. From such disaster come stories that strengthen my belief in God. One came from this tragedy as well. There was a high school basketball game scheduled at the high school that day. Since it was Good Friday, the parents insisted the game be rescheduled. After much debate, it was rescheduled for after the holiday. The quake struck at a time the basketball game would have been well underway and the auditorium filled with teams, fans and family. The quake destroyed the high school but hundreds of lives were saved because of parental and Devin intervention.
The decade of the eighties was a time of growth for Anchorage, thanks to a flood of North Slope oil revenue into the state treasury. Capitol projects and an aggressive beautification program, and what seems to be some far-sighted community planning, greatly increased Anchorage's infrastructure and quality of life. By the beginning of the 1990s Anchorage boasted 259 miles of maintained trails. A Hilltop Ski Area was established in 1984. Along with the Alyeska Ski Resort in Girdwood and the Alpenglow Ski Area that followed, residents has three fully operational skiing areas. Tourism and recreational activities have become a mainstay of the modern Anchorage economy. This continues today. Anchorage probably is the float plane capital of the world. They have more float planes per ca pita than any place in the world.
On our second day in Anchorage, Peggy and I were up early to view some glaciers and in anticipation of seeing some wildlife from one of those float planes. 
Viewing and photography was somewhat hampered by smoke from a large fire that obscured Mt. McKinley and we ran into some low clouds obscuring the peaks of the Chugach Mountains. We chose discretion over valor to avoid a white out. We did see the Knik Glacier and how these rivers of ice shaped the land. We were always on the lookout for Dall sheep and mountain goats, bear and moose but only the pilot spotted some sheep high up on a ledge of the mountain. We landed the plane on the coral blue glacier waters of Lake George, had time to take a few more photos. No wildlife was spotted around Lake George either. We decided to head on back to the air docks in Anchorage.
The following day, Peggy and I were up early, packed and fed and were ready to take a ride on the Alaskan Railroad to our next destination--the city of Seward. The train terminal was minutes away from our hotel. We checked in at the terminal desk and learned that the railroad added an observation car. With a small upgrade in price, we had first class service from Anchorage to Seward. We're glad we took advantage of the offer. The service was outstanding and the views were spectacular as the train wound its way around and through Kenai Mountain peaks and passes through three tunnels, passes Seven Tier Water Falls, Kenai Lake and Spencer and Holgate Glaciers.
We arrived in Seward in mid-morning. The town of Seward didn't look like much when we disembarked and bused a short distance to our hotel. The accommodations, I should say, were a bit more to my expectations then the Ramada in Anchorage. We didn't bother to unpack. It is too much of a hassle when you're doing stop and go's every two or three days until we reached the ship. We dropped our bags and headed out to give Seward a look and grab some lunch on the way. We found Seward to be a quaint little fishing and tourist village. There were several eateries, one or two nice restaurants at dockside and views of snow capped mountains reflecting in the harbor that only a Pisces would love.

Following lunch, Peggy and I strolled the main drag. Seward has a very nice sea life center at the foot of town. For a small fee you can spend the entire afternoon listening to Marine Biologists talk about various kinds of sea life you often see in and around the waters of Seward. On our visit, a young man was talking about Harbor Seals. They have a very nice observation tank that encircles the interior, beautifully displaying all the varieties of sea life. One mammal that catches your eye however, is a two and one half ton Harbor Seal. He has lived his life in captivity. While observing his behavior, he suddenly leaped from the tank and moved (rather quickly for a two-plus ton sea mammal) to a barrier door, stopped and made, what sounded to me like growling sounds. We wondered if it was feeding time. The young biologists assured us that he wasn't hungry but horny. There were young lady Harbor Seals behind door number one.
We departed the Sea life Center, took a few pictures, looked into a few of the nice shops that line the main drag, and we each had freshly made ice cream.


Following a spectacular day aboard and seeing Sea Otters, Orcas, Seals, and many variety of see birds and getting up close to a tidewater glacier--so close you could hear it move and see it break apart to become part of the ice flow around the fjord--we sailed off to Fox Island. The island got its name from the thousands of foxes that once inhabited the island until Russian fur traders just about depleted the fox population. While on Fox Island, we were treated to an all you can eat wild Alaskan Salmon and prime rib dinner. While enjoying the meal, we were treated to an interpretive presentation by a National Park Ranger who told the story of Fox Island and those who lived and worked there. Following dinner we had time to beach comb and walk about before heading back to Seward.
The first stop on our sea cruise was Hubbard Glacier. It is a sweeping mountain vista, icebergs, and glaciers. There was some initial concern of not getting there because of the reports of heavy ice flows leading up to the Glacier. It would be a disappointment to have seen the largest tidewater glacier on the North American continent. The Captain was one click above "full stop" as he challenged the icebergs as he eased us into four miles of the glacier. The slow speed was not all bad because from our balcony we saw the birth of a baby seal and then observing the mother using her flipper to flap the water to entice the newborn into the water and out of harm's way. The picture isn't the best but you can see the blood stained ice and the baby (the size of a hand) struggling to follow mom's directions. The slow pace to the glacier allowed for many vista from which to take photos-- a lot of photos; too many to insert in a travelogue.

Peggy and I took advantage of the Mount Roberts Tramway to get an Eagle-eye's view of Juneau before exploring the inner city and have lunch at the Red Dog Saloon. The view going up got better with each passing moment. When we reached the top, we found spectacular views, a walking trail that provides great looks at the surrounding mountains and forests, beautifully "made in Alaska" art work by the Tlingit Indians and a one-eyed Eagle. The Eagle, "Lady Baltimore" was shot in the eye with a BB gun and is cared for through donations.
We came down off the mountain and began walking the town--jewelry store by jewelry store. It was a gift from Celebrity Lines. A treasure hunt, so to speak. Most ladies departed the confines of the ship armed with handsome, newly purchased folding portfolios, complete with refundable coupons that were redeemable for free jewelery gifts. They were on the march to see who could buy jewelry or receive a token piece of jewelry for trying. We managed to walk through the partial list of named participating stores before lunch at the Red Dog Saloon.
This world famous saloon has provided hospitality and "fellowship" to weary travelers and local patrons alike. Earl and Thelma (Pederson) Forsythe, played the piano in her white gloves and silver dollar halter top. Later in territorial days, Gordie Kanouse would meet tour boats with his mule and wore a sign saying, "follow my ass to the Red Dog Saloon." It is now under new management with a little different type service. Other than a meal and drinks, one can purchase souvenirs.


It was 0700 on June 7th so we must be in Skagway, Alaska "land of the North Wind" named by nearby tribes. It is a town where the past lives. Where the cries of "there's gold in them there hills" of the Yukon still echo from steep canyon walls, where you can hear the sounds of ball room pianos and the singing of dance hall girls from the Red Onion Saloon ring out both day and night. The romance and the exciting linger around every street corner and the beauty and dangers confronting the early prospectors can be experienced in every bend in the road leading to the Yukon. Around 1896 the word was out that gold had been discovered in the Yukon. Within two years, tens of thousands of stampeders had passed through Skagway using the step and dangerous White Pass to reach the gold-rich Canadian Yukon. Prospectors faced a most rigorous test - the 600 mile trek across the Yukon's frozen terrain to the Klondike gold fields. Many died, but the wealth of the lucky few who struck it rich, was real. Over $50 million in gold was pulled out of he Yukon in just four years.
When Peggy and I arrived at the Point we were a bit disappointed. There was a gift shop just off the docking area. It was filled with Tlingit crafts, art and home remedies. Nothing to write home about. We would have considered a Kayak paddling expedition along the cost of Icy Straights, but we were aware that was available until we a string of Kayakers. We decided to take a bus ride to the town of Hoonah.
On first glance, this didn't appear to be much of an adventure so, being a Pieces I headed toward the water's edge. As we approached the long jetty leading to the docking area, We spotted an Eagle. My pulse rate shot up and our pace quickened. As we approached dockside we spotted several Eagles (young and adults) around the dock; some sitting and watching, others souring high above us. As we approached the dock at water's edge, there was a fisherman with a simple fishing pole that had eight hooks on it with flies attached to the hooks. There was no bait. He was a fisherman simply catching his bait for his next trip out beyond the Straights. He would simply dangle this line into the water, give it a jiggle or two and out would come a line with a fish on each hook. He would then remove the fish (his bait), keep the ones he wanted and tossed the others on the dock or into the water. Sitting patiently on the dock was a young Eagle; and circling the dock were 20 or so Eagles enjoying the fisherman's rejects. Peggy and I could have stayed there all day just sharing the absolute grace and beauty of our nations bird.
Peggy and I returned aboard the Millennium in anticipation of our 1500 departure for Katchikan, Alaska named by the Tlingit Indians meaning meaning "Thundering Wings of an Eagle". Estimated mileage was reported to be 278 nautical miles (NM).
During the off season the Captain and crew run excursions taking tourist out for several hours demonstrating the baiting of hooks and traps for crabs and Halibut and dangers that surround this dangerous job and the importance of every crew member being always alert and knowing their jobs and the jobs of the other crew members. We sailed to various spots and was shown the basic of their most difficult, strenuous and dangerous tasks. They first pulled up some King Crab. The Halibut lines were empty and the Dinginess crab pot was not. It had a crab it along with a 40 plus pound Octopus that had the crab for breakfast and lunch, and probably dinner had we not brought the Octopus aboard. The crew returned the octopus to the water but not before have a show and tell and receiving suck marks on his neck and hands for the effort. He wondered how many times his wife would continue to believe that it was the mark of an octopus and not some other's mark.
We then sailed to an area owned by the Tlingit Indian nation. The land was given to the Indians and has no interference from our federal government. No laws, no taxes, no welfare, nothing. With this freedom and their relationship with the Ballad's Captain, he is allowed to sail into their waters and put on a show of Eagle power you would not believe.
When we sailed into the Tlingit's waters we could see a single Eagle in a nest. When the crew began seeding the waters with squid, the sky was absolutely filled with Eagles. There were so many Eagles that I went through a roll of film in a matter of minutes. I then situated myself on the upper bow of the Ballad and watched the show. As the the Eagle swooped by and lined themselves up along the starboard side of the Ballad, they would be directly overhead. They were so close to that I honestly could have reach out and touched them. One was so close to my head that I though I saw my image in his eye. Unfortunately, this blog won't allow me to share all of the photos I took, but seeing these should get all some idea of just how up close and personal I got with this great and beautiful bird.
Before the Alleutian Ballad trip, we did have the opportunity to walk most of the small town of Kachikan. It is a small town, built on pilings over the sea. Short side streets and steep wooden stairways lead to residential areas on the bluff above. As we walked we passed Dolly's Historic Museum which is located on Creek Street, Ketchikan's former red-light district. It has been fully restored to have a satin-covered four-poster brass bed and elegant tapestried walls. Like many of the cities and towns, Katchikan also offers a look at the indian culture of Alaska. There is the Tongase Historical Society Museum housing over 1000 exhibits of the Tlingit, Tsimshian and Haida Indian cultures, together with pioneer memorabilia and wildlife displays.
To all who got this far, thank you. I hope you enjoyed this travelogue as much as I enjoyed recapping
our great trip for you.
Harvey and Peggy Rosenfeld
Viewing and photography was somewhat hampered by smoke from a large fire that obscured Mt. McKinley and we ran into some low clouds obscuring the peaks of the Chugach Mountains. We chose discretion over valor to avoid a white out. We did see the Knik Glacier and how these rivers of ice shaped the land. We were always on the lookout for Dall sheep and mountain goats, bear and moose but only the pilot spotted some sheep high up on a ledge of the mountain. We landed the plane on the coral blue glacier waters of Lake George, had time to take a few more photos. No wildlife was spotted around Lake George either. We decided to head on back to the air docks in Anchorage.
The following day, Peggy and I were up early, packed and fed and were ready to take a ride on the Alaskan Railroad to our next destination--the city of Seward. The train terminal was minutes away from our hotel. We checked in at the terminal desk and learned that the railroad added an observation car. With a small upgrade in price, we had first class service from Anchorage to Seward. We're glad we took advantage of the offer. The service was outstanding and the views were spectacular as the train wound its way around and through Kenai Mountain peaks and passes through three tunnels, passes Seven Tier Water Falls, Kenai Lake and Spencer and Holgate Glaciers. We grabbed a bite to eat at one of the local seafood houses. The restaurant was basically attached to the hotel, it was so close. Most of the food was fried or grilled but they did serve a King Crab chowder that I enjoyed.
Following lunch, Peggy and I strolled the main drag. Seward has a very nice sea life center at the foot of town. For a small fee you can spend the entire afternoon listening to Marine Biologists talk about various kinds of sea life you often see in and around the waters of Seward. On our visit, a young man was talking about Harbor Seals. They have a very nice observation tank that encircles the interior, beautifully displaying all the varieties of sea life. One mammal that catches your eye however, is a two and one half ton Harbor Seal. He has lived his life in captivity. While observing his behavior, he suddenly leaped from the tank and moved (rather quickly for a two-plus ton sea mammal) to a barrier door, stopped and made, what sounded to me like growling sounds. We wondered if it was feeding time. The young biologists assured us that he wasn't hungry but horny. There were young lady Harbor Seals behind door number one.Seward has free bus service in and around town. We took advantage of it to get back to the hotel area. Once there we signed on to a Kenai Fjords tour for the following day. It is a full day cruise visiting what turned out to be a magnificent tour of the Northwestern Fjords. We sailed through some rough waters but managed to explore most of what was planned, seeing marine sea life to include Otters to Whales, and sea birds to include Puffins, among others you may observe in and around the tidewater glaciers.
Following a spectacular day aboard and seeing Sea Otters, Orcas, Seals, and many variety of see birds and getting up close to a tidewater glacier--so close you could hear it move and see it break apart to become part of the ice flow around the fjord--we sailed off to Fox Island. The island got its name from the thousands of foxes that once inhabited the island until Russian fur traders just about depleted the fox population. While on Fox Island, we were treated to an all you can eat wild Alaskan Salmon and prime rib dinner. While enjoying the meal, we were treated to an interpretive presentation by a National Park Ranger who told the story of Fox Island and those who lived and worked there. Following dinner we had time to beach comb and walk about before heading back to Seward.After docking and disembarking from Kenai Fjord's boat trip we went back to the hotel, did some laundry and repacked for our departure the following day. The Cruise ship, The Millennium, was already docked with a boarding time of 1PM. When the time approached, we hopped on board the shuttle bus to take us to the boarding area. This all new to us and it seemed to be going smoothly. "Seemed" is the operative word.
We had arranged for an inboard room; one with no balcony. On the advice of many, including the travel agent, it was allowed that if balcony accommodations are available at boarding time, we could upgrade to the higher priced spread.
This we did, but not without difficulty. To make a long and confusing story short and simple, let's say the Millennium service personnel had computer difficulties. The results of this computer "glitch" would haunt us almost the entire trip. It was resolved late into the cruise, however, resulting in a credit to our bill following a strong behest from my travel agent--Peggy. Despite this difficulty, we found our reassigned accommodations more than comfortable at midships with easy access to all decks and services.
The following morning we had a 8:00am arrival time for Juneau, Alaska's first true American city and the capital of Alaska. Juneau is nestled deep within the northern reaches of the Inside Passage. It was founded during the gold rush in 1800. The former gold rush town counts among its riches some of Alaska's most spectacular scenery. Nestled also at the foot of Mt. Juneau, it faces the water from the mainland side of Gastineau Channel. There are several magnificent fjords also located along the channel coast visible as we worked our way up the Inside Passage.

Peggy and I took advantage of the Mount Roberts Tramway to get an Eagle-eye's view of Juneau before exploring the inner city and have lunch at the Red Dog Saloon. The view going up got better with each passing moment. When we reached the top, we found spectacular views, a walking trail that provides great looks at the surrounding mountains and forests, beautifully "made in Alaska" art work by the Tlingit Indians and a one-eyed Eagle. The Eagle, "Lady Baltimore" was shot in the eye with a BB gun and is cared for through donations.
We came down off the mountain and began walking the town--jewelry store by jewelry store. It was a gift from Celebrity Lines. A treasure hunt, so to speak. Most ladies departed the confines of the ship armed with handsome, newly purchased folding portfolios, complete with refundable coupons that were redeemable for free jewelery gifts. They were on the march to see who could buy jewelry or receive a token piece of jewelry for trying. We managed to walk through the partial list of named participating stores before lunch at the Red Dog Saloon.
This world famous saloon has provided hospitality and "fellowship" to weary travelers and local patrons alike. Earl and Thelma (Pederson) Forsythe, played the piano in her white gloves and silver dollar halter top. Later in territorial days, Gordie Kanouse would meet tour boats with his mule and wore a sign saying, "follow my ass to the Red Dog Saloon." It is now under new management with a little different type service. Other than a meal and drinks, one can purchase souvenirs.We departed Skagway at 1830 for the 94 mile trip to Icy Strait Point Alaska looking forward to the opportunity to enjoy Tlingit culture and wildlife viewing. Our destination can be found within the Inside Passage. It is located near the city of Hoonah, the largest native Tlingit Indian settlement in Alaska. Locals share the sea with humpback whales, Orcas, Dall's porpoises, seals, sea otters, halibut and all five species of Pacific Salmon. It is rare that you see Orcas or Humpbacks from the shore. We did, however, spot one as we were transferring to and from the Point by the tender we used to fairy back and forth to the ship.
We had reservation on the Alleutian Ballad. For those who watched the TV series "The Most Dangerous Catch" may remember this boat that fished and crabbed the Bearing Sea. The Alleutian Ballad while recovering their baited Alaska King Crab traps lost power in the storm. Their engine room became flooded and a large wave swept over the boat, turning it over and putting the entire crew at risk of death. The crew was rescued from the deck and the icy waters and the Alleutian Ballad was towed back and repaired.
We then sailed to an area owned by the Tlingit Indian nation. The land was given to the Indians and has no interference from our federal government. No laws, no taxes, no welfare, nothing. With this freedom and their relationship with the Ballad's Captain, he is allowed to sail into their waters and put on a show of Eagle power you would not believe.
When we sailed into the Tlingit's waters we could see a single Eagle in a nest. When the crew began seeding the waters with squid, the sky was absolutely filled with Eagles. There were so many Eagles that I went through a roll of film in a matter of minutes. I then situated myself on the upper bow of the Ballad and watched the show. As the the Eagle swooped by and lined themselves up along the starboard side of the Ballad, they would be directly overhead. They were so close to that I honestly could have reach out and touched them. One was so close to my head that I though I saw my image in his eye. Unfortunately, this blog won't allow me to share all of the photos I took, but seeing these should get all some idea of just how up close and personal I got with this great and beautiful bird.Before the Alleutian Ballad trip, we did have the opportunity to walk most of the small town of Kachikan. It is a small town, built on pilings over the sea. Short side streets and steep wooden stairways lead to residential areas on the bluff above. As we walked we passed Dolly's Historic Museum which is located on Creek Street, Ketchikan's former red-light district. It has been fully restored to have a satin-covered four-poster brass bed and elegant tapestried walls. Like many of the cities and towns, Katchikan also offers a look at the indian culture of Alaska. There is the Tongase Historical Society Museum housing over 1000 exhibits of the Tlingit, Tsimshian and Haida Indian cultures, together with pioneer memorabilia and wildlife displays.
It was all aboard at 1745 for an 1800 cast off for the Inside Passage. Carved by glaciers and blanketed with majestic Western hemlock and giant Sitka Spruce, Alaska's Inside Passage is a region of pristine water, snow-capped mountains, deep fjords and forested islands. With its mild, maritime climate, this area is prime habitat for Bald Eagles, Sea Lions, Porpoises and Whales. Most were not visible unless you caught a serendipitous look from your stateroom's balcony or you happen to be on one of the open decks intently looking for them. I think it is safe to say, few were spotted or they would have been part of the ship's video offered of our trip from Seward to Vancouver, BC. What we did observe while slowly sailing by, however, was the vast beauty of the protected offshore islands, the vast maze of deep channels and quiet bays and lovely forested islands.
Some statistics for those who like that sort of thing. Alaska's portion of the Inside Passage, extends 500 miles from north to south and 100 miles from east to west. The area encompasses 1,000 islands, 15,000 miles of shoreline and thousands of coves and bays. British Columbia's southern portion of the route is of similar extent, with up to 25,000 miles of coastline. It includes the narrow, protected Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island and the B.C. mainland; as well as the Johnstone and Queen Charlotte Straits between Vancouver Island and the mainland.
There was little difficulty getting through Canadian Customs and out to the ramp where we had arranged for a Vancouver to Seattle shuttle bus. When we arrived in Seattle, we checked into the Marriott Harbor View Hotel. We unpacked, made the required telephone calls to family and chilled for an hour or so then went to dinner at Anthony's Pier 66. Across the street there was very fine seafood restaurant with a great view of the Seattle waterfront. We walked off some of the great food and drink and headed back to the hotel to wind down and relax for the evening.
We were both up, dressed and ready to go the following morning.
We strolled the waterfront, winding our way up to the Pike Place Market. Having lived in Baltimore and attending outdoor farmers markets, neither Peggy nor I was ready for the Pike Place Market. It runs about four long city blocks, covers both sides of the street and encompasses many of the shops and eateries. It truly is a place to behold. Some vendors were just setting up their wears while others were probably up and running before Peggy and I put our feet on the floor. Those who know me know that is early. When I say there was nothing lacking and nothing you couldn't buy; from soup to nuts wouldn't cover it all. We finally reached the end of Pike Place Market and found a place for a leisurely breakfast.
The weather was so un-Seattle-like; sunny, clear and warm. We continued our slow walk and took some photos of the waterfront, of each other on the waterfront and decided to take in the Seattle Aquarium which was located nearby; actually just a few blocks from the hotel.
The aquarium wasn't to the standard of Baltimore's Inner Harbor facility but it had a unique character to it. It housed a lot of varieties of fish, mammals and coral. What separated this from the Inner Harbor facility was it highlighted much of the sea life you find in and around the waters of Seattle. It was an enjoyable experience and Peggy got to try out her digital camera in difficult lighting conditions. The picture shown here suggests she "done good".
The next morning, Peggy and I hiked (a short hike) up some rather San Francisco-like streets to get to the Space Needle. It is an amazing feet of construction, built to withstand extremely strong winds. It is a great ride up and the view of almost the entire city of Seattle unfolds before your eyes. There is an outside observation deck; where most congregate to take photos of the surrounding visages of the the city. There also is an indoor observation deck complete with video stationed around the circular structure to provide detailed information from what you can see from that particular vantage point.
The ride and views are equally breathtaking. When the elevator doors open, you are introduced to a gift shop. Peggy and I found the most direct means out of the shop and found ourselves seeing and listening to some beautiful music, as if to welcome us to another gift shop. This shop, however, had some outstandingly beautiful pieces, to include some unique scrimshaw done on mammoth, whale and walrus bone. They also had jewelry that was made from the ash of Mt. Saint Helen. I bought Peggy a beautiful green (emerald like) ring with matching earrings.
We left Space Needle Park on the Seattle monorail dropping us off in the middle of the shopping and banking center of Seattle. We continued our walking adventure which took us to the harbor steps that led us down to harbors edge where we stop to have brunch at Elliot's Oyster House. The food was great and they too had a locally brewed beer that was of my taste, so I had a few. From the restaurant, it was another short walk to the hotel. That completed our circuitous route to and from Alaska and around Seattle, and we did without encountering rain or really cold weather. A trip to love and remember.
Some statistics for those who like that sort of thing. Alaska's portion of the Inside Passage, extends 500 miles from north to south and 100 miles from east to west. The area encompasses 1,000 islands, 15,000 miles of shoreline and thousands of coves and bays. British Columbia's southern portion of the route is of similar extent, with up to 25,000 miles of coastline. It includes the narrow, protected Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island and the B.C. mainland; as well as the Johnstone and Queen Charlotte Straits between Vancouver Island and the mainland.
There was little difficulty getting through Canadian Customs and out to the ramp where we had arranged for a Vancouver to Seattle shuttle bus. When we arrived in Seattle, we checked into the Marriott Harbor View Hotel. We unpacked, made the required telephone calls to family and chilled for an hour or so then went to dinner at Anthony's Pier 66. Across the street there was very fine seafood restaurant with a great view of the Seattle waterfront. We walked off some of the great food and drink and headed back to the hotel to wind down and relax for the evening.
We were both up, dressed and ready to go the following morning. The weather was so un-Seattle-like; sunny, clear and warm. We continued our slow walk and took some photos of the waterfront, of each other on the waterfront and decided to take in the Seattle Aquarium which was located nearby; actually just a few blocks from the hotel.
The aquarium wasn't to the standard of Baltimore's Inner Harbor facility but it had a unique character to it. It housed a lot of varieties of fish, mammals and coral. What separated this from the Inner Harbor facility was it highlighted much of the sea life you find in and around the waters of Seattle. It was an enjoyable experience and Peggy got to try out her digital camera in difficult lighting conditions. The picture shown here suggests she "done good".
The ride and views are equally breathtaking. When the elevator doors open, you are introduced to a gift shop. Peggy and I found the most direct means out of the shop and found ourselves seeing and listening to some beautiful music, as if to welcome us to another gift shop. This shop, however, had some outstandingly beautiful pieces, to include some unique scrimshaw done on mammoth, whale and walrus bone. They also had jewelry that was made from the ash of Mt. Saint Helen. I bought Peggy a beautiful green (emerald like) ring with matching earrings. To all who got this far, thank you. I hope you enjoyed this travelogue as much as I enjoyed recapping
our great trip for you.
Harvey and Peggy Rosenfeld






